The following sequence of photographs shows the basic steps involved in the supply and installation of our fascia & gutter.         

 

	Step 01. Fascia & gutter product is delivered to site in stock lengths the day before the installation.
	Step 02. Plank Hangers are hung over the top plate of the frame. These will support the scaffold planks.
	Step 03. After the hangers are in place the scaffold planks are slid into position.
	Step 04. A purpose made setout square is used to mark the correct fascia bracket position on the rafter.
	Step 05. The fascia bracket is aligned with the set out mark and is fixed to the rafter tail with screws.
	Step 06. Two string lines, top and bottom, are pulled between the two fascia brackets at either end of the run.
	Step 07. All intermediate fascia brackets are then fixed to the rest of the rafters using the string lines as guides.
	Step 08. The fascia is then slid onto the fascia bracket. The fascia is set up 25mm + the thickness of the tile batten.
	Step 09. The protective plastic film is then removed from the installed length of fascia.
	Step 10. Where two lengths of fascia meet a fascia joiner is fitted.
	Step 11. Once the two fascia lengths are correctly positioned they are drilled and riveted to the fascia joiner.
	Step 12. The rest of the fascia is then fitted to the job following the same procedure.
	Step 13. At corners the a 90 degree tab is cut and formed on one of the lengths of fascia. The other length is then slid onto it.
	Step 14. An internal fascia mitre fitting is then drilled and riveted into place to cover the join of the two lengths of fascia.
	Step 15. Once the fascia is fixed in the correct position it is scribed ready for trimming.
	Step 16. Tin snips are used to cut the fascia on the scibed line.
	Step 17. A purpose made external mitre fitting is then drilled and riveted into place to join the two lengths of fascia.
	Step 18. With the fascia now installed the gutter needs to be measured.
	Step 19. The gutter is measured and scribed on the ground allowing for any required mitre corners.
	Step 20. Gutter is cut with a hack saw along the scribed line to form the gutter mitre.
	Step 21. A metal tab is cut into the mitre.
	Step 22. One of the metal tabs is bent to 90 degrees. These tabs will overlap the other run of gutter to form a join.
	Step 23. A hammer & chisel are used to create a hole through the gutter where the downpipe drop will be fitted.
	Step 24. Tin snips are used to cut a neat hole through the gutter to allow installation of the down pipe dropper.
	Step 25. A prefabricated galvanised downpipe drop is drilled, riveted and sealed into place.
	Step 26. When all preparation work on the run of gutter is completed the protective plastic film is stripped off.
	Step 27. The prepared run of gutter is hoisted into place on the fascia.
	Step 28. Purpose made adjustable spring clips are used to fix the gutter to the fascia. The gutter is adjusted for correct fall.
	Step 29. With the gutter now in the correct position, galvanised metal overstraps are installed to support the gutter.
	Step 30. The two corners of the gutter mitre before being joined. The join tab is visible on the left hand gutter.
	Step 31. Here the two pieces of gutter are joined ready for drilling.
	Step 32. The mitre tabs are drilled and riveted.
	Step 33. Silicone is applied to the gutter join.
	Step 34. The silicone is hand worked into the join to ensure a good seal that will not allow water to drip through.
	Step 35. The gutter is then trimmed with tin snips to remove excess metal material.
	Step 36. A hammer is then used to neatly dress down the mitre corner.
	Step 37. The last job is to install the valley irons. The valley iron is "Bird Mouthed" at the base of the first run of valley.
	Step 38. The required lengths of valley are hoisted onto the roof and fitted on the boards installed by the carpenter.
	Step 39. The valley irons are secured into place using nails that are bent down onto the valley iron.
	Step 40. Here the "Bird Mouth" cut can be seen protruding into the internal gutter corner. It should overlap by 50mm.
	Step 41. With the job complete, the fixer dismantles his scaffold and puts all offcuts and plastic into the bin provided.
	Step 42. The job is now finished and ready for the roof tiler to commence work.